Shirt



U ITED STATES ALBERT E. LEHMAN, OF SAUGERTIES, NEWV' YORK.

SH RT, 840.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 412,764, dated October 15, 1889.

Application filed January 17, 1889. Serial No. 296,675. (Model) ..To all whom it may concern.-

Be it known thatI, ALBERT E. LEHMAN, of

Saugerties, in the county of Ulster and State trated only such portionsof a shirt or shirtwaist as are essential to an understanding of my improvement.

In the drawings, Figure I is a rear view of a collar and a portion of the upper part of a shirt embodying my improvement. Fig. 2 is a similar view showing certain seams open which are shown closed in Fig. 1. Fig. 3 is a view of the collar of the shirt detached. Fig.

4 is a view, on an enlarged scale, showing the method of sewing a certain seam of an infold, as seen from the rear or outside of the shirt. Fig. 5 is a similar View from the front. or inside. Fig. 6 is a section of the collar of the shirt, taken on the line w 00, Fig. 1.

Similar letters of reference designate corresponding parts in all the figures.

A designates the collar of the shirt. This collar is formed of two portions a a, which are of substantially the same shape, and are united by stitching upon the side edges a a About midway in the length of the collar and of each of the portions a thereof are downwardly-extending portions 00?, which are gorershaped, as here shown. These goreshaped portions are preferably cut from the goods at the same time as the collar, and are integral therewith.

B designates a yoke of the shirt. This yoke may be of the usual or any desired form, except that at or near the middle of its length it is provided with a V-shaped or gore-shaped opening b. There are two of the yokes B- one upon the outside or back of the shirt and one upon the inside of the shirt. They are of the same shape substantially, and 1 the V- shaped openings therein will when the yokes are arranged upon the shirt come approximately opposite each other.

C designates the main body of the shirt. The yokes B are secured to the main body 0 by rows of stitchingc 0 0 The gore-shaped pieces or upon the collar-pieces a a are of approximately the same shape as the V- shaped openings bin the yoke B, and when the collar is arranged upon the shirt said gore-shaped pieces will extend into said V- shaped openings.

Rows of stitching d, terminating at secure the collar to the body portion C of the shirt. A row of stitching d secures a portion of the lower edge of the port-ion a of the collar to one of the yoke-pieces B, and also the side edges of one of the gore-shaped pieces a to the side edges of the V-shaped openings bin said yoke-piece. A-similar row of stitches secures the portion a, of the collar and the other of the gore-pieces a to the other of the yoke and front portions of the collar they 'may be drawn apart, the back and front portions of the collar and the back and front yoke-pieces not being secured together at or near the gore-pieces a The portions having been united as described, a fold is taken longitudinally of the ore-pieces a and about midway in the width thereof upon eachof the portions a a of the collar. This fold will also extend approximately to the upper edge of the collar when the same is turned up, and in which position I have shown all the collars in the drawings. The fold consists simplyin laying one-half of the gore-piece over upon the other half, and the fold in the portion of the collar which is above the gore-piece will be necessarily of approximately the same shape as is the gorepiece; or, in other words, when the whole fold is opened out it will present approximately the appearance illustrated in Fig. 2. The parts having been folded together in the manner described, the portion of the material folded in is tucked in or passed to one side between the portions a a of the collar and the yoke-pieces B in such manner that the fold upon the rear side of the shirt will extend toward one shoulder and the fold upon the inside of the shirt will extend toward the other shoulder. This is illustrated more clearly in Figs. 1, 4, 5, and 6, and more particularly in the latter figure.

I have lettered the fold extending toward the right shoulder, and shown in dotted lines, e, and the fold extending toward the left shoulder, also shown in dotted lines, f. By this means it will be quite clear that seams g g will be formed upon both the inner and outer sides of the shirt, which seams will be substantially opposite each other, and, in the position of the shirt as illustrated, substantially vertical.

The folds having been made, I unite the side edges of the scams 9 in the following manner: Referring first to Fig. l, which represents the rear or outside of the collar raised, the thread It is passed through an eyelet at the lower end of the seam g from the inside of the shirt. L The thread is then sewed backand forth along the edges of the seam g until the latter is completed. It is then passed through to the inside of the collar, thence back to the outside of the collar through an eyelet i, and thence through an eyelet 1' back again to the inside of the collar. The side edges forming the seam g are then united in the same manner as with the seam g, the thread at the lower end of the seam being passed to the outside of the shirt, and thence inwardly through an eyelet 2' where the two ends of the thread h may be united together by tying, as shown in Fig. 5.

The shirt when thus constructed presents the appearance indicated more clearly in Fig. 1. It will be observed that the thread 7L unites both the seam g and the seam g.

The shirt having been washed and shrinkage of the collar having occurred, as is inevitable in all woolen shirts, the thread h is out between the eyelets 1' i It then the two threads be grasped at the lower part or where they are tied together and drawn downwardly, the seams g will be separated, and by then grasping the collar or other portion of the shirt adjacent thereof and drawing them side- Wise the folds will be opened out, so that the collar and collar portion will present the appearance indicated more clearly in Fig. 2. By this means it will be clearly seen that the width of the portion of the shirt which extends about the neck will be materially increased and the shrinkage due to washing will be compensated for.

It is to be understood that although I have illustrated and described my invention as applied to a shirt or shirt-waist I do not limit myself to its use on such garments, as it is obviously applicable to any garment where there occurs a band or fold liable to shrinkage upon becoming wet.

\Vhat I claim as my invention, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is-

1. In a garment, the combination, with a body portion, of a band-like portion united thereto and comprising two portions made separate from each other, each of said portions of the band-like portion being provided with separate folds extending inwardly, the outer edge of each fold being united by a draw-thread to the portion of the band-like portion in which the fold is formed, substantially as specified.

2. In a garment, the combination, with a body portion, of yoke port-ions made separate from each other, a collar having two portionsmade separate from each other, said collar being provided with gore-shaped pieces extending into and united at their edges to V- shaped openings in the yoke-pieces, said gorepieces being folded in the direction of the width of the collar and tucked between the yoke-pieces and collar-pieces in opposite directions, the side edges of the folds thus formed being united by draw-threads, substantially as specified.

ALBERT E. LEI'IMAN. Witnesses:

JOHN D. FRATSHER, JOHN CLEARY. 

